Black Star Square & the Arts Centre

The day began at Black Star Square, an iconic symbol of Ghana’s independence and pride. Standing beneath the Black Star Memorial, the space felt open, bold, and an affirming visual reminder of freedom, justice, and self-determination. It wasn’t heavy or overwhelming; it was grounding in a quiet, steady way. We took photos, soaked in the moment, and appreciated what the monument represents.

From there, we headed to the Arts Centre, and the energy immediately shifted. The market was alive—loud, colorful, layered with music, laughter, and movement. Negotiation is the language here, and YBLA co-founder, John Martin, gave us one rule: never pay the first price. If you do, you’ve been played. I took that seriously. I walked away from every stall and came back paying more than 50% less than the original price, every single time.

Somewhere between the banter and the back-and-forth, I met Kobe, a seller who

appreciated the confidence, humor, and rhythm of negotiation. He was impressed enough to take me under his wing for the rest of the visit, walking me through the market to his brothers’ and sisters’ shops and negotiating on my behalf. What started as shopping quickly turned into friendship.

The Arts Centre itself felt like a small city. Wooden statues lined the walkways, each hand-carved with care. Tables overflowed with beautiful handcrafted jewelry, intricate fabrics with bold patterns, and stacks of African net sponges: my favorite find and a must-have for exfoliation. There was all-natural shea butter, rich and earthy, and racks of Ghanaian football jerseys, including one I picked up for my dad. Everywhere you turned, there was craftsmanship, story, and pride.

What struck me most was the community. A church stood just steps from a mosque. People gathered in nearby rooms to play video games, watch sports, and pass time together. I learned that an estimated 1,000 to 3,000 people live between the Arts Centre and the beach directly behind it; an entire ecosystem thriving just beyond the stalls we shopped from.

After returning to the hotel, we took part in a chocolate tasting, where I became friends with Moses, the Manager of Guest Experiences at the Mövenpick Ambassador Hotel, where we stayed. It felt fitting to connect over chocolate in Ghana, one of the world’s largest cocoa producers.

We ended the day with dinner at The Living Room. I had jollof rice and spiced chicken, and for the first time, tried fufu with goat stew, and I loved it. The meal felt like a perfect close to a day filled with culture, conversation, and connection.

This day reminded me that Ghana isn’t just something you visit, it’s something you engage with. Through history, through community, through negotiation, and through shared joy.

Read about Day 4